2023 Llewlyn 'God Moving over the Face of the Waters' Chardonnay

These grapes come from one of the older Chardonnay blocks at Lolonis Vineyard in Redwood Valley. It was planted in the 1960s and is still owned and run by the Poulos family, the grandchildren of the original owners. The grapes were driven to Cloverdale, foot-stomped, and pressed the next day into a mix of French and American oak, where it sat for almost 30 months in barrel. During that time, I moved production from Cloverdale to a new location in Richmond, where I currently make wine.

About 25% of the barrels were left untopped after their first year. Since releasing the '22, I've received a bit of attention - partially because of the wine, but mostly because of you all, so thank you. I find myself genuinely grateful that people resonate with my intention while I navigate the irreparable nature of natural winemaking. Vintages change, some barrels go bad and get dumped down the drain, but over time you learn to love what comes with those shifts, as you grow more excited to watch the hatching of each vintage’s chrysalis. Compared to '22, the caramel-like aldehydes from oxidation are a little lighter. More pronounced this time is the concentration of fruit and lift of acidity, something I felt was missing before, and I'm glad to find it here. I'm still fascinated with oxidative qualities, but I've become equally enamored with length and concentration. They are truly ephemeral qualities - my understanding of them transient and abstruse.

tl;dr: 60+ year-old Chardonnay. More than two years in barrel; some topped, some not. Overripe pears, almonds, Doug fir needles, early-season snowmelt rivers.